Cambridge House, 600 Monroe Ave NW - 8/1/11

10/13/11 Update: The owners have announced the closing of the Cambridge House as of 10/15/11


This has been a popular, local bar for a long time that features a comfortable, English-style atmosphere and a huge selection of wine and beer. Hardwood floors, dark wood, and low lighting create an appealing pub ambiance with a lot of character. Typical bar food was always  available but when you thought about dining out, Cambridge House would not come to mind.

Things are changing. The focus is now more on food, with a small and interesting menu, ever-changing, and based on locally-produced ingredients. The pool table and dart boards are still there as is the fireplace seating. There’s a new dividing wall to set the bar apart but everything else looks the same.

We took a high-backed, dark wood booth along the bar around five o’clock and were promptly served with a bottle of water and menus. Scanning the menu, we were impressed by the selections but quickly realized that it was not a full menu with appetizers and entrees. 

Instead we were offered a mix of sides, small plates, and a few other dishes; we needed a few minutes to sort it all out. Most selections are nicely paired with an appropriate beer and wine offerings.

We started with pierogies filled with Michigan potatoes, shrimp, and bacon. Caramelized onions and a pea puree accompanied the dish. Shrimp and bacon flavors were light but we were okay with that. The potatoes were creamy, and when each bite was combined with the onions and puree, it was a mouth-watering treat.

Next up was the Michigan Comfort, a tender filet of beef served with roasted potatoes and crimini (or do you say cremini) mushrooms in a rich gravy. Exquisite flavor and presentation, the beef was beautifully medium rare.

The description of the Goulash was irresistible and it didn’t disappoint as our second selection. Beef, buffalo, and lamb were simmered in a tomato-date sauce and was served with gemelli pasta and Dancing Goat chevre, with a small side salad of peppers, tomatoes, and onion. The pasta was prepared perfectly, the meat flavors were distinct but compatible, the tomato and date sauce was subtle, and the chevre topped it off wonderfully for a very well-balanced and highly recommended dish.

As you can see by the photos, these are not huge servings but they were reasonable portions. There is still a huge alcohol menu (it’s still a bar after all) and you can’t stop by for lunch; they don’t open until 4:00 p.m. Service was exemplary.

We’re fans of Derby Station and Graydon’s Crossing and their owners also own Cambridge House. We’re not fans of unattributed quotes but will leave you with theirs: “To be without good food and good drink...is a paltry existence.”

www.cambridgehousegr.com
              

The Derby Station, 2237 Wealthy St SE – 11/24/10

We had passed this by a few times last summer and decided to visit this East Grand Rapids restaurant today. We walked in and were greeted by a mostly empty restaurant and an offer to seat ourselves. The entrance is off Wealthy and brings you into the middle of the restaurant. Tables and a few booths are located on either side and the bar is located straight ahead. A large outdoor patio is off to your left.

It’s a comfortable, pub atmosphere with an open ceiling, dark wood paneling, tables, and booths, which all contrast nicely with the lighter wood floor. We seated ourselves in a high-backed booth and were promptly provided with a large beer/wine menu along with a smaller food menu.

It apparently began as a sister restaurant to Graydon’s Crossing but has since modified the menu. Few traces of British/Indian food can be seen although Fish & Chips is still available. Instead, the emphasis is on fresh, local ingredients, and the menu has many creative and interesting selections. By the time we looked up the online menu to assist in writing a review, it had already changed to December selections. The menu not only changes but is also kept up-to-date online.

We began with the mushroom and tomato bruschetta, and it was amazingly delicious. Sauteed tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach, pearl onions, and an herb goat cheese spread were served on grilled bread, topped with an over easy egg. The egg is a European influence and it was a suitable addition. Everything combined beautifully.

Our first main dish was pumpkin gnocchi served with andouille sausage, sauteed wild mushrooms, and leeks in a black peppercorn parmesan cheese sauce. Overall it was a tasty and well-prepared dish, but the andouille sausage overpowered everything. A little less of it, and in smaller pieces, would have resulted in a much more balanced item. 

The second main selection was grass-fed lamb, braised with white beans, parsnips, carrots, garlic, and wintergreens, and served in a rich creamy sauce. It was topped with gremolata and parmesan crisps, and served with crostinis. Everything was nicely prepared and presented. We’re both fond of lamb, not mutton, and this was perfect.

The Derby Station presents a welcoming atmosphere, friendly and prompt service, and good food. But if you just want drinks at an attractive bar, you will still be more than satisfied with the available selections. What more can you ask for in a neighborhood pub?

12/29/12 Revisit  - We had horrible service, i.e., our server brought menus and then did not return for over 15 minutes. We had no water, no wine, and couldn't get an appetizer ordered. Then we had to return a bottle of watery wine but did finally enjoy great bruschetta. All of our entrees were lukewarm but otherwise alright. Seated in the dining room behind the bar is not a good place to be.

                                                                                                          

www.derbystation.com